Saturday, February 17, 2018

6.45am Hookipa has chest to head high peaks. Bit smaller and less consistent than yesterday. No wind but a little bit of morning sickness that will likely disappear as the sun comes out.

Saturday 2 17 18 morning call

A SUP foiling and two longboard sessions for me yesterday for a total of 6 hours in the water. Days like yesterday are a rarity in Maui and need to be taken advantage of. What made it special was the total lack of wind until noon. My first longboard session was a 10 and that was thanks to a Mentawais kind of glassiness in the middle of the morning, due to the cloud cover.

At sunset I took these photos of Marlon Lewis on his tiny foilboard to illustrate something that I tell my foiling students: when you foil, your body is a lot quieter than when you surf. In this first shot, he's completely centered over the board and that's how it needs to be when you're going straight.

In this other one, he's initiating a cutback and a little twist of his shoulder is all he needed to achieve it. Not having a board touching the water, makes the foil extremely sensitive to the rail pressure. In other words, it takes a minimal amount of rail pressure to make it turn. Much more subtle than a regular surfboard.

Just like any other discipline, the more I teach foiling, the more I learn how to teach it. Here's the sentence with which I now start my foil lessons:
"I will consider successful your first three waves if you manage to keep the board down and not if you manage to make it foil!". The first thing you need to learn in fact, is to put the extra (compared to surfing) weight on the front foot to control the foil. If you don't do that and put the weight on the back foot as you're used to when you catch a wave and drop in it when surfing, the foil will shoot up and you're gonna fall. Only after a few successful first waves in which the students manages to keep it down I will then let him/her try to make it come up by releasing some of the front foot pressure. It works.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore

No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for nothing.

North shore
2.4ft @ 12s from 340° (NNW)

1.8ft @ 15s from 328° (NW)
1.8ft @ 11s from 324° (NW)
1.8ft @ 13s from 321° (NW)

5.8ft @ 8s from 77° (ENE)
1.8ft @ 11s from 18° (NNE)
1.4ft @ 15s from 345° (NNW)
1.2ft @ 12s from 347° (NNW)

Small mixed period northerly energy at Pauwela with the addition of 6f 8s from the east will provide plenty fun size waves on the north shore again.

Wind map at 8am shows lovely light offshores on the north shore. That will provide excellent conditions once again.

Wind map at noon shows light sideon wind instead.

North Pacific shows three fetches:
- a WNW distant one
- a NNE close by one
- a easterly close by one which has been in place for quite a few days now and is responsible for a short period easterly swell that started a couple of days ago and will last for at least a couple of weeks. That means that that fetch is predicted to stay in place for that long. Unfortunately, starting Thursday the head of it will include the islands, so we're going to get the wind too. Enjoy until it lasts.

South Pacific doesn't offer anything of relevance.

Morning sky.

Friday, February 16, 2018

6.45am Hookipa looked chest to head high and very clean from the distance.
Didn't wait much at all.

Friday 2 16 18 morning call

Just a shortboard session for me at Hookipa yesterday, which was mostly chest to head high as correctly indicated in the beach report. This photo shows the notorious "occasional bigger set".

4am significant buoy readings
South shore

No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for nothing.

North shore
2.8ft @ 13s from 310° (WNW)

1.4ft @ 15s from 318° (NW)

5.9ft @ 8s from 85° (E)
1.2ft @ 15s from 335° (NNW)
New small WNW pulse at the NW buoy, which refracts on the island and becomes NW at Waimea. I think it's NW in Maui too, the Pauwela buoy shows 335, but that's because 6f 8s from 85 make it difficult for it to correctly detect the direction of a smaller swell. I didn't read that anywhere, that's just my opinion based on years of empirical observations.
The easterly swell will be the dominant one.

Wind map at noon shows light onshore trades. Should be calm in the morning.

North Pacific has a WNW fetch and a pretty extended easterly one.

The Tasman Sea fetch only lasted one day in the South Pacific and today there's only a tiny and weak south one.

Morning sky.

Thursday, February 15, 2018

8am Hookipa is chest to head high with occasional bigger sets. Clean with light konas.

Thursday 2 15 18 morning call

A shortboard and a longboard session for me yesterday. In the morning I didn't feel like challenging the big waves at Hookipa, so I chose a more mellow spot. Very happy with my decision, as the waves were just pure fun.

Here's the clip of one.

Mid morning the Konas started blowing and there was all kind of action at Lanes/Hookipa. This is a photo by Jimmie Hepp from this gallery.

I was shooting myself and here's what I got.
Tanner Hendrickson getting barreled while a windsurfer is sailing out. The Point was firing.

Next two is Robby Swift.

My longboard session was from 6 to 6.30pm. Just a friend and I in the wildness of the elements, kinda gorgeous really. It helped that the period was down to 12s (as the photo below shows), otherwise it would have been a bit too challenging for my tastes.

5am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for nothing.

North shore
6.9ft @ 10s from 328° (NW)

4.8ft @ 9s from 357° (N)
4.7ft @ 11s from 322° (NW)

6.1ft @ 8s from 80° (E)
4.5ft @ 11s from 337° (NNW)

NW swell down to 11s locally with the addition of 6f 8s of easterly windswell will provide plenty waves at Hookipa. What will characterize the early morning session will be the wind and the rain.

Wind map at noon. The Konas should be stronger before that and lighter after that.

North Pacific shows a WNW fetch. The one to the NE of it is oriented more west to east and only a sliver of it is oriented towards us, as the map on the right shows.

South Pacific shows a fetch SE of the Tasman Sea. From that distance, IF we get anything out of it, it would be in 9 days. As a matter of fact, Surfline predicts 0.8f 16s out of that fetch on Saturday Feb 24.

Morning sky.

Still plenty rain around us at 6.25am.

Lastly, I just received an email with the schedule of the 2018 HSA contests. Happy to share it here.


MAY 5th, 2018
(Alt dates: 5/6,12,13,19,20,26,27)


July 14th, 2018
(Alt dates: 7/15,21,22,28,29, 8/4,5,11,12)


September 15th, 2018
(Alt days 9/16,22,23,29,30)


November 17th 2018
(Alt: 11/18,24,25)


December 1st 2018
(Alt: Sunday, 12/,2,8,9,15,16,22,23)

(2 Day Event, January 12th - February 3rd, 2019)

(Alternate Holding Period: 2/4 - 3/31)

Boys U12, Boys 12-13, Boys 14-15, Boys 16-17, Girls U14, Open Women & Open Longboard :
[Weekends (Sat & Sun) and holidays ONLY]

Open Men : Any Day the Bay calls

Wednesday, February 14, 2018

6.45am Hookipa has double overhead clean waves.
8.5 if you can handle.

Wednesday 2 14 18 morning call

Longboard and SUP foiling sessions for me yesterday. This is the picture I had in mind when I entered the water for the first one. Got lucky to be able to actually take it.

Below is a video with Alex Aguera explaining how to put on and take off the Gofoil wings. My wing was so tight because I previously used surf wax which, as Alex explains at the end, might help getting it in, but then it gets sticky (that's what it's made for!) and makes it difficult to take it off. Silicone lube did the trick and now I can replace the wings without having to take the whole foil out of the board. Stoked to have "the boss" so available for these kind of help.

If Alex is the guy I have thank for making these incredibly fun toys, Dave Kalama is the one I have to thank for actually convincing me to buy my first foil without having ever tried it. It wasn't words, it was the stoked eyes of the kid he had after a foiling session at the harbor.
"If a guy like him is having so much fun with this thing, I'm going to give it a try" is what I thought. I'm glad I did.
Photo by Tomoko from yesterday's session.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for nothing.

North shore
8.4ft @ 12s from 318° (NW)
5ft @ 10s from 316° (NW)

7.5ft @ 13s from 322° (NW)

5.8ft @ 14s from 328° (NW)
3ft @ 8s from 67° (ENE)
2.9ft @ 10s from 329° (NW)

Second pulse of the current NW swell on the rise at the buoys. Below is the graph of the three reported ones together with the Surfline forecast. If this last one is correct, the swell should peak at 7.6f 12s at 2pm locally and I drew the red line accordingly.
What we know for sure, is that 6f 14s at 4am is bigger than yesterday morning.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific shows a WNW fetch and a small easterly windswell one.

Nothing on offer in the South Pacific.

Morning sky and somehow Oahu has rain again and we don't. Not yet at least, Windguru calls for some in the afternoon.

Tuesday, February 13, 2018

7am Hookipa has head to head and a half clean waves.

Tuesday 2 13 18 morning call

A shortboard and a SUP foiling session for me yesterday. This is Jason Hall during his SUP foiling session, carving on almost nothing.

5am significant buoy readings.
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for nothing and I had the confirmation that it was like a lake on that side yesterday.

North shore
7.1ft @ 14s from 319° (NW)
4.7ft @ 9s from 357° (N)

6.5ft @ 13s from 319° (NW)

4.9ft @ 13s from 324° (NW)
3.1ft @ 8s from 47° (NE)

Lovely sizes at the buoys, as usual what will count the most is the wind, once again very favorable on the north shore.

Pat Caldwell sums it up with overlapping NW events and then he gets into the usual exercise to try to describe  where were the related fetches. Something that instead I don't have to do, as I can just show you the maps and you guys can check the sources on your own. Below is the collage of Feb 9, 10 and 11.

Wind map at noon shows offshore SE winds that shouldn't get to the north shore, as the Haleakala will block them.

North Pacific shows a remote westerly fetch and a easterly one.

South Pacific shows a very remote S fetch.

Morning sky shows clouds moving in from the South. It's raining in Oahu.