Tuesday, April 04, 2017

Tuesday 4 4 17 morning call

Super busy day organizing the departure for my trip, but I did manage to squeeze a surf session in yesterday. Hookipa was the smallest it's been in at least 10 days after those two large back to back WNW swells. Get used to this size, soon it's gonna be the norm. Photo by Jimmie Hepp from this gallery.

3am significant buoy readings
South shore

1.5ft @ 13s from 228° (SW)
1.2ft @ 10s from 222° (SW)
Mmm... not sure what to think about those readings, and I don't have time to investigate this morning, so please check the webcams.

North shore
5.3ft @ 10s from 100° (E)
4.8ft @ 11s from 312° (NW)

7.3ft @ 10s from 111° (ESE)

3ft @ 12s from 317° (NW)

5.1ft @ 9s from 78° (ENE)
2.6ft @ 11s from 326° (NW)
2.3ft @ 5s from 69° (ENE)

I totally question that 4.8f 11s at the NW101 buoy, considering that the nearby NW001 only reads windswell. I think there might still be NW energy up there, but the buoy gets confused with the energy of the easterly windswell. Or the Surfline way of interpreting the readings.

--- update: 4am NW101 reading is 7.2ft @ 10s from 93° (E) and that confirms my theory ---

Doesn't really matter, there's no much on the way anyway and what counts is what we have locally. 3f 12s at Waimea (we can count on those) and 2.6f 11s + windswell at Pauwela will make for another head high not particularly clean kinda day. I won't be doing a beach report, but with the Hookipa sensor already reading 10(6-15)mph from 91 at 4.30am, I'll give it a maximum of 2 without even seeing it.

The Windguru 10 days table shows the continuation of the easterly trades for the whole week. In the weekend things should finally change and bring some clouds and rain and a break in the relentless wind. But it's not going to last long, as the trades will start blowing again shortly after. We are heading towards spring (you guys know I don't go by the calendar) and this is a clear sign of that.

Today the weather will be extremely pleasant once again.

Current wind map shows:
1-2) small weak WNW-NW fetches
3) a strong fetch in the gulf of Alaska, unfortunately aiming more at the west coast (13f 11s forecasted on Saturday in the Monterey area). We might still get a bit of angular spreading
4) a tiny fetch down south

This is the last call until I return from my trip on April 27th. The morning calls should be back on the 28th. I'll try to post as much as I can/feel while travelling, so keep checking the blog please.

Couple of words about my trip, assuming some of the readers might be curious. First, I didn't choose the period. I just got a request for accommodation from some friends, made a deal with them for using my house and car and booked the Bali tickets. That's how I plan on doing my longer Italy-Indo trip in summer time, so if your plan on coming to Maui for 1.5 months this summer, let me know. Single person would be preferable, but can accommodate two.

In Bali I have two boards at a friend's house and could be quite happy to just surf there (two years ago Uluwatu was a lot less crowded in April than July), but this time Easter is right in the middle of my stay and there's some nasty weather forecasted around the 12-14.

I have never been to the Mentawai islands and I always wanted to go, but the way it works over there really doesn't fit my style of travelling. I like to travel with no reservations, following the flow (and the forecast). Most resorts/boats over there want you to drop a considerable amount of money for fixed 8-11 nights periods.

So I haven't booked anything yet, but I've been contacting heaps of boats and surf camps, holding some ferocious negotiations in same cases. One thing is for sure: I'm not going to book at 7 nights stay at the Macaroni's resort ($300 night) if it's gonna be small and onshore for the first 4 days.

Ideally, I would like to explore the Playgrounds area and possibly also surf two waves I always wanted to surf: Telescopes and Macaronis. Below is a collage of the ferry schedules I was able to retrieve over the internet. As I said, I'd like to move from one camp to another on my independent schedule. Wish me luck.

Monday, April 03, 2017

6.30am hookipa has blown out chest to head high mix from nw 11s and windswell.

Monday 4 3 17 morning call

No water time for me yesterday, but I did my first liver flush (passing some small stones), so I'm pretty happy about that. The simple procedure illustrated in The amazing liver and gallbladder flush book by Andreas Moritz requires a 6 days preparation of drinking apple juice (I went for the malic acid alternative, way too much sugar with no fiber in fruit juices), in addition of what you normally eat and drink, so I timed it to coincide with a day that I was off and the wind was very strong and I don't think I missed much. That's also what it looks from the photos of Jimmie Hepp in his daily gallery. Waves were on their way down and pretty blow out, even though there were some diamonds in the rough, like this left below.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore

2.4ft @ 13s from 241° (WSW)
1.5ft @ 6s from 172° (S)
1.3ft @ 9s from 205° (SSW)
W Hawaii
5.2ft @ 11s from 325° (NW)
The first reading at Lanai is obviously still a westerly wrap (confirmed by the reading at the W Hawaii). As usual, check the webcams and you'll know what's really there.
North shore
7.4ft @ 10s from 106° (ESE)

3.5ft @ 12s from 316° (NW)

6ft @ 9s from 77° (ENE)

Whatever is leftover of this long lasting NW swell is now "overwhelmed" by the windswell energy both at the NW and Pauwela buoys. Waimea is more protected from the easterly stuff, so it still shows a nice 3.5f 12s. What I just wrote is also confirmed by the directional spectrum image below that shows the highest energy coming from a dominant direction of 75 (red arrow), but there's still 11-12s energy coming from around 115 (blue arrow). Overall, today the waves will be relatively small and blown out.

PS. What I just wrote is confirmed by the 5am readings where the NW energy is "magically" back.
5.5ft @ 9s from 78° (ENE)
3.3ft @ 6s from 72° (ENE)
2.9ft @ 11s from 344° (NNW)
The wind is predicted to blow hard again, as shown by the HRW model from the Windguru page, that has looked incredibly similar to itself for something that feels like an eternity. The 5.45am sensor reading at Hookipa is 9(3-14)mph from 81 and it's blowing through my windows nicely.
Current wind map shows:
1) small WNW fetch
2) decent N fetch. It was in place also yesterday (although weaker), and the WW3 model sees some northerly energy arriving already tomorrow. We'll see.
3) windswell fetch

Another beautiful day in paradise.

Sunday, April 02, 2017

Sunday 4 2 17 morning call

No water for me yesterday, it was the last day of the preparation for the liver flush and I wanted to rest. Jimmie Hepp is having a ball with these radical windsurfing conditions and the amazing light. His followers and subscribers must be loving it too. I picked four shots out of today's gallery.

5am significant buoy readings
South shore

3.7ft @ 14s from 254° (WSW)
1.9ft @ 10s from 215° (SW)
Still westerly wrap at the buoy, check the webcams. Yesterday there were waves both on the Kihei and Lahaina side.

North shore
5.8ft @ 12s from 302° (WNW)

5.1ft @ 13s from 314° (NW)

5.5ft @ 13s from 326° (NW)           
4.7ft @ 9s from 72° (ENE)
3.8ft @ 6s from 78° (ENE)
Below is the graph of the three reported buoys, all trending down. Pauwela reads 5.5f 13s which is still a decent size, maybe more manageable (I saw very few people out surfing yesterday). Windswell is rising instead. Sorry, no beach report, I'm home hoping to start passing gallstones any time soon.
The trades were blowing pretty hard all night, but at 6am the Hookipa sensor is only reading 6(2-10)mph from a weird 54 direction. Might be a temporary lull and I wouldn't trust that direction at all, since the forecast is for yet another strong trades day, as the HRW model from the Windguru page shows below.

Current wind map shows:
1-2) small NW and N fetches. The N one should improve and send us some 10s waves soon
3) windswell fetch oriented better than the past week

South pacific wind map shows
1) a tiny but close fetch
2) a big but distant one
which one is going to make bigger waves for us? In this particular case, I think the big one wins.

Saturday, April 01, 2017

Saturday 4 1 17 morning call

Double surf session for me, one in Lahaina and one at Hookipa (with the rising big swell). Unfortunately Lahaina had an uncharacteristic early morning sea breeze. It's actually not that rare and, IMO it's related to the strong trades. You'll never find it on a light trades day. But not all strong trades day have it. Pretty much impossible to predict. Too bad, because the waves would have been fun. Hookipa was a mess of wind, I just went for the workout.

The swell picked up as predicted and the windsurfing conditions were pretty radical. Photo by Jimmie Hepp from this gallery. Bernd Roediger was on a tear.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore

4.2ft @ 17s from 268° (W)
The wrap of the WNW swell is hitting the Lanai buoy and it's overshadowing the south swell. IMO, both the size and direction of that reading are influenced by the interaction between the two swells and that reading is almost useless. What counts in the case are the webcams.

North shore
9.9ft @ 14s from 299° (WNW)

8.1ft @ 15s from 314° (NW)

6.3ft @ 15s from 320° (NW)
4.3ft @ 9s from 79° (ENE)
3.5ft @ 7s from 77° (ENE)

Below is the graph of the three reported buoys. It shows that the swell is holding pretty steady in size, but it's already down to 14s at the NW buoy. So, slow decline through the day, but still plenty energy and big waves at Hookipa.

The MC2km website is down (those guys need a good webmaster), it would be nice if someone could investigate if maybe they changed the address again and let me know. In the meantime, today the wind should be exactly how it has been for the last week: easterly, strong and gusty. At 5,30am the Hookipa sensor reads 14 (10-20) from 81 and good luck at surfing those big waves with that wind. No report from the beach from me, I got a very tight schedule and can't waste any time today.

Another stunner on the way. How's the weather been? Unreal.

Current wind map shows:
1) an extremely weak NW fetch
2) the windswell fetch
Such a pressure configuration should immediately trigger the thought:"we're gonna have a small day in a few days". That's what's gonna happen after the current swell will be over (around Wednesday).

Strong fetch very much down under. so far away and not well oriented. We'll see what we get in 7-8 days.

Friday, March 31, 2017

6am lahaina side coming in at knee to waist high with occasionally bigger sets. Ukumehame is windy.

Friday 3 31 17 morning call

Double south shore session yesterday for me, second one on a short board at Thousand Peaks, which I rarely do over there. But, as you can see from the photo/video below, it was really fun. I love tapping into those light offshore conditions. If it happens to you too, know that it's not gonna last long (might turn 30 knots offshore anytime), so enjoy every single minute of them.

Here's the wave I took the photo from.

Here's my Jimmie Hepp's photo of the day from this gallery documenting another intense day of windsurfing action at Hookipa.

Kai Lenny announced on his facebook page (and I'm sure in a bunch of other places) that he just completed his first Big Island to Maui crossing on a foil. 50 miles foiling. Unlike the photo, the page has some footage showing that the crossing was made on a SUP board. Or with a paddle, at least. Doesn't really matter, he's pumping most of the time. As weird as it may sound, next time I see him, I'll ask him to show me his quad muscles.

3am significant buoy readings
South shore
2.5ft @ 14s from 206° (SSW)
1.7ft @ 8s from 172° (S)
1.1ft @ 9s from 205° (SSW)
1.1ft @ 7s from 173° (S)
Nice 14s reading, there should be waves also today. The shorter periods might introduce some disturbances, but fortunately they're much smaller. Check the webcams and my beach report, I'm gonna leave in the dark. No interest in blown out Hookipa these days, if there's cleaner alternatives.
North shore
12ft @ 17s from 303° (WNW)

6.9ft @ 18s from 308° (WNW)

3.1ft @ 20s from 308° (WNW)

4.3ft @ 9s from 86° (E)
3.4ft @ 6s from 82° (E)
2.6ft @ 12s from 324° (NW)
0.9ft @ 20s from 317° (NW)
Below are the graphs of the four reported buoys. I put two red arrows on NW101's one to indicate the sharp rise from 1f to 12f in 12h. One foot an hour can be definitely called a sharp rise. I circled the rises at Hanalei and Waimea (this last one, according to Pat Caldwell, shouldn't be blocked by Kauai). Check the Surfline Pipeline webcam if you want to see some bombs. Might be one of the sessions of the winter, thanks to the easterly, offshore winds.
According to GP's rule of thumb 16h @16s +/-1 and viceversa, at 20s a swell takes about 12h to get from the NW buoys to Maui. The rise I pointed out was from noon to midnight and in fact we see the first readings locally about midnight. Even though the actual dominant direction is not as west as the previous swell (hence, not as blocked), my intuition (and the analysis of the fetch history below) tells me to still expect less size and a less steep rise locally.

The WW3 output is even more conservative calling for the first 1f 21s reading at 9am (kinda wrong already), and for the peak to happen after midnight at 8f 16s. It does seem that instead it's gonna happen sooner than that, but I wouldn't expect much at all in the early morning. IMO, the rise will be most noticeable in the afternoon. Hookipa should be fairly small at dawn with only 2.6f 12 leftover from the previous long lasting swell + windswell.

The collage of the wind maps below (from the left, March 27, 28, 29 and 30) shows that the storm started in front of the souther half of Japan, just like the previous one. It then moved closer to us and a little more north, so I expect this swell to be long lasting too: all the way into Wednesday, when a fresh new NW swell is forecasted to peak at 7f 14 from 332 at 2pm.
The iWindsurf Hookipa sensor reads 8 (5-12)mph at 5am and the forecast is for another strong/gusty easterly trades day. Check the MC2km maps when they get updated.

Some clouds and a little rain brought by the wind, but overall it should be another gorgeous day.

Current wind map shows:
1) the fetch that generated today's big WNW swell now pretty weak
2) a small, not well oriented N fetch
3) the windswell fetch
4) a strong fetch off the east coast that will send big waves to the Canary islands, Morocco and the rest of that African coast. Nothing to do with us, but I saw it and my fingers went to circle it automatically...

Thursday, March 30, 2017

6am Ukumehame is waist to occasionally chest high , clean with light variable wind.

Thursday 3 30 17 morning call

In the next days I'll be very busy between work, preparation for trip departure and liver flush, so yesterday I decided not to worry about any of the above and just fully enjoy another drop dead gorgeous day in Maui. I drove all over the island (which I absolutely love doing, specially when the light is like these days), surfed 4 different spots and just loved life.

None of the sessions was particularly worth mentioning from the surfing point of view, but they were all equally enjoyable just because... they were surf sessions in Maui! Something that most surfers in the world won't ever have the pleasure of experiencing. Often we forget how lucky we are to live in such a gorgeous place.

Take Honolua for example. It was tiny, with a waist high set every 20-30 minutes, but I bet there's plenty people in the world that would have loved to be out there. The water was incredibly clear and you could see the reef through it, which I did from the nose of my longboard on that single perfect small wave I caught. I'm having a love affair with small waves lately.

In the afternoon, as usual when the trades are blowing, the windsurfers hit the waves at Hookipa and this is a photo by Jimmie Hepp from this gallery. It's been a pretty amazing streak of sideoff gusty windy days and I almost feel sore for those guys. One of the reasons I'm not attracted by windsurfing anymore (at least with strong wind), is how taxing it is for your body (compared to surfing, at least). But most of the sailors are younger than me, they can handle.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore

1) 2.6ft @ 8s from 170° (S)                 
2) 1.8ft @ 11s from 268° (W)
3) 2.2ft @ 14s from 234° (WSW)
Interesting readings at the Lanai buoys, let's dig in to them.
1) I looked at the maps, but couldn't find the source of this windswell
2) this is the tenacious and stubborn westerly wrap on its last breath of life. It started Sunday, that's five days. Thanks a lot, I surfed it ever single day.
3) this is a brand new swell. The Surfline forecast was (and still is) calling for 1.7f 14s from 195. The fact that the buoys shows 234 instead could be due to two possible reasons:
a) the above mentioned west wrap is influencing the oscillation of the buoy and making the direction detection more west than it would be if swell n.3 was the only one in the water
b) the swell is actually not the one forecasted. Below is the map of March 24 that shows a small fetch in the Tasman sea that could (specially if the winds were a bit stronger in reality) be the one that generated it. Fetch n.2 is much stronger, but also more far away and that more southerly pulse should start arriving tomorrow.
In the end, who cares (other than me, I mean), check the webcams to see what size we're talking about.

North shore
4.9ft @ 13s from 309° (WNW)

7ft @ 13s from 319° (NW)

5.1ft @ 14s from 323° (NW)

4.3ft @ 14s from 320° (NW)
2.7ft @ 7s from 79° (ENE)
2.6ft @ 9s from 69° (ENE)
2ft @ 11s from 324° (NW)

Below is the graph of the four reported buoys. Hanalei has the biggest number of this pulse of a very long lasting swell. In Maui the increase wasn't as noticeable (as I wrongly predicted), because it happened after dark (red circle in the Pauwela graph).
4.3f 14s (plus everything else you see in the readings) will provide more overhead waves all day to play with. No sign of the new large WNW swell, which will hit Friday and so we'll talk about it tomorrow. No beach report today, I have a work appointment at 6am.

Woodie is back to work, but no updated at this time, so check the MC2km maps later for the most reliable wind forecast. I psoted the HRW model yesterday, today it looks just the same, so another strong and gusty easterly trades day. Hookipa sensor shows 4(2-8)mph from 101 at 5.20am, but I feel stronger gusts outside my window.

Another stunner is on its way.

Current wind map shows:
1-2) close and nearby NW fetches both associated with the low that produced tomorrow's swell. Still making some waves for us, thank you very much guys
3) windswell fetch

I found this video yesterday. Sunday March 26 was the first and biggest day of this powerful WNW swell and that's how Mason Ho utilized its power at Pipeline.

PS. No time at all to review anything this morning, sorry about the eventual mistakes