Friday, January 19, 2018

Friday 1 19 18 morning call

Days like yesterday are a blessings for me, as they provide me with an opportunity to rest my tired body. The only discipline I would have been interested in, would have been a SUP foiling downwinder, but I'm not good enough yet to handle those crazy windy conditions.

Here's a photo by Jeremy Riggs that shows (if you know the gopro cameras) the remarkable size of the windswell on a non-foiled Maliko run.


Here's a guy we all have to learn from. Live every day like it was your last one, because you know, one it will be and it could be today. And if you see that as a negative thought, you got it all wrong.


4am significant buoy readings
South shore

No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 0.5f 16s.

North shore
Pauwela
8.9ft @ 9s from 65° (ENE)
5.2ft @ 11s from 354° (N)
4.1ft @ 6s from 75° (ENE)
 
No new NW energy on tap today, so the only buoy we care about is Pauwela that shows still 5f 11s of declining northerly energy and a solid 9f 9s windswell from 65 degrees (trending east), which will provide the dominant blown out waves for the day.

Below is the graph, that looks just like the Surfline forecast I posted yesterday. Maybe a little difference in the fact that the northerly energy is hanging in there just slightly bigger than predicted and that might give me the opportunity to pull an unexpected successful surf guide rabbit off the hat this morning, we'll see.

Wind map at noon shows strong easterly trades.


North Pacific shows a NW fetch and a strong E windswell one.


Nothing of relevance in the South Pacific.


Morning sky.

Thursday, January 18, 2018

Thursday 1 18 18 morning call

Two shortboard and a windsurf sessions for me yesterday. Session two was at Honolua, here's some photos.






Meanwhile, at Hookipa the conditions were quite radical with big waves and very strong wind. Casey Hauser found a diamond in the rough in this photo by Jimmie Hepp from this gallery.


4am significant buoy readings
South shore

No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 0.6f 15s starting at 2pm and very slowly increasing throughout the next few days.

North shore
NW101
6.4ft @ 12s from 330° (NW)

Waimea
6.7ft @ 13s from 319° (NW)

Pauwela
8.1ft @ 13s from 327° (NW)
6.7ft @ 8s from 72° (ENE)
2.6ft @ 6s from 75° (ENE)
2.4ft @ 9s from 339° (NNW)
 
The NW swell peaked yesterday afternoon as predicted, now it's on its way down, but 8f 13s at 4am is still a solid couple of numbers. Below are the graphs of NW101, Pauwela and the Surfline forecast. Notice how the black line stayed almost steady after the peak of the ground swell at the NW buoy. That's because it indicates the significant wave height, which is the result of all the energies present in the water (more precisely, it's the average of the highest one-third of all of the wave heights during the 20-minute sampling period). That's an information of very little interest, unless your spot is open to all the directions, like a buoy.

Underneath the black line, there's the individually sorted swell events and that's what you want to know in order to correctly make your call.
Check the forecast now. Today the NW ground swell (red line) is predicted to go down quite quickly, while the easterly windswell (purple line) is on the rise. 
The resulting height of the waves at your spot(s) of interest is part of the local knowledge that each surfer should have.



Wind map at noon shows strong easterly trades.


North Pacific shows a WNW and a NW fetches and a windswell one.


South Pacific doesn't show anything of relevance.


Morning sky.

Wednesday, January 17, 2018

10.30am honolua is chest to head high, occasionally bigger at the cave.
Hanalei buoy is pumping, but direction is 323, it will take a bit of refraction effort to get here.
Kinda crowded, 35 total.
Bit slow at times, but very clean.

7am Hookipa has head to head and a half waves, but pretty blown out.
3

Wednesday 1 17 18 morning call

Just a windfoiling session (actually a lesson) for me yesterday. This photo by Jimmie Hepp from this gallery shows pretty radical conditions at Hookipa in the afternoon.


4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 0.5f 11s.

North shore
NW101
11.6ft @ 13s from 338° (NNW)

Hanalei
8ft @ 13s from 325° (NW)

Waimea
4.9ft @ 13s from 313° (NW)

Pauwela
5.4ft @ 13s from 332° (NNW)
3.9ft @ 11s from 335° (NNW)
2ft @ 5s from 63° (ENE)
1.7ft @ 7s from 18° (NNE)

New NW pulse on a steep rise (close by fetch) at the NW101 buoy as shown in the graph below. Applying GP's rule of thumb for the travelling time (16h @ 16s +/- 1h/1s), at 13s a swell takes 19h to get here, so I drew a red dotted line to indicate the rise of the swell in Maui. It will be more visible in the afternoon and biggest by sunset. The morning will still have plenty energy (5.4f 13s at 4am) from the previous one. The problem, as usual, will be the wind already blowing 13mph at Hookipa at 6am.


Better get used to it, since we're about to get slammed by some strong trades for the next few days, as the Windguru table shows.


Wind map at noon shows moderate/strong trades.


North Pacific shows a distant NW fetch, a closer but weaker NNW one and a tiny, but pretty intense NE one. Multiple swells are hence going to overlap in the second part of the week.


South Pacific shows the rest of the Tasman Sea fetch we saw the past few days. The southerly one dissipated.


Morning sky.

Tuesday, January 16, 2018

Tuesday 1 16 18 morning call

A SUP foiling and a windfoiling sessions for me yesterday in a day that saw the return of the wind after a few days of beautiful glassy conditions. This is kiter Olivia Jenkins at Hookipa, photo by Jimmie Hepp from this gallery.


The HSA does a great job at organizing and running their local contests in Maui, but it's hard to find the results online afterwards. What I found out is that the open men category was won by Ian Gentil (second Isaac Stant). This are the groms of the U12 group (most likely held yesterday) won by Cash Berzolla (photo by Kristin Coccaro).


2am significant buoy readings
South shore

No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 1f 12s.

North shore
NW101
7.8ft @ 14s from 330° (NW)

Waimea
6.2ft @ 14s from 324° (NW)

Pauwela
6.8ft @ 14s from 331° (NNW)
4ft @ 12s from 334° (NNW)
3.4ft @ 10s from 342° (NNW)
1.1ft @ 4s from 75° (ENE)

NW swell trending down according to forecast, as the graphs of the three reported buoys shows below. Still plenty energy in the water, but not particularly clean conditions because of the mix of periods and the wind.


Wind map at noon shows light trades.

North Pacific shows a good and relatively close NW fetch. Related swell predicted by Surfline to peak tomorrow night at 10f 14s.


South Pacific shows a couple of out of season fetches. 2.4f 14s predicted by Surfline in a week.


Morning sky keeps looking clear, but the strengthening trades might bring squalls to the north shore.

Monday, January 15, 2018

7am the harbor has small waves

Monday 1 15 18 morning call

A shortboard and a longboard sessions for me yesterday and lots of action going on all over the island. Let's start from the mother of all waves. This is Kai Lenny on a magic tow wave at Jaws. Photo by FishBowlDiaries.



Let's continue with Jaws with  a wipeout shot that makes me think how bad of a beating these guys can take. Photo from Jimmie Hepp from this gallery.


Talking about beatings, "near death experience" might be slightly exaggerated, but for sure this was a scared to death experience (it gets worse as it goes).
Two days ago a guy at Hi-Tech inquired about renting a softop for a friend who wanted to ride Jaws on it. I told him we wouldn't rent him the board for such a thing and recommended him to get a wave storm at Costco instead. This must be his friend and I believe I did the right thing.


In between sessions and before work, I found the time to go to Honolua and take some shots of the Legends of the Bay contest. I only stuck around for an hour (the sun was ferocious) and these photos are from round two.

Coming out of the barrel with style.

Beautiful bottom turn from this surfer (looks like Granger, but I'm not sure) on a wave that stayed very open.

Here's the next bottom turn on the same wave.

Matty Schweitzer on a sizey one. I had a quick chat with his brother Zane who updated me on Dusty Paine's conditions. They had to put him to sleep for a couple of days to let the "inflammation of the brain" subside. Now he's awake, walking and talking. He's gonna have surgery as he fractured his skull in the back and in the front. A very serious accident, but with a good prospective of full recovery. Best wishes to him.

Here's the best wave I saw. Imai DeVault took off way behind the peak on the this one. He was in third with a few minutes left in the heat, so he had to go. To me it seemed impossible from the very start.

He set his rail immediately and perfectly and got under the peak with speed.

So I kept shooting the sequence, but 12 shots later I gave up thinking he was down.

Instead not only he came out, but he also threw a beautiful round house cut back (which the camera failed to focus, I started the return process) and flew like an eagle into the final closeout barrel. An obvious 10.

In the next heat, it was Tanner Hendrickson's turn to get a big barrel.

Here's the exit.

Both Imai's and Tanner's waves were correctly judged as 10's. But Imai's wave was way more difficult. Which made me think about an idea for a minor change in the WSL judging rules, the introduction of the "conditional unlimited point ride". The normal scale would still be set to 0 to 10, and 99.9% of the times, that would be all that is necessary. But the judges would be allowed to possibly use a higher score if someone has already scored a 10, and in the same heat someone rides an even better wave. The whole scale would reset to normal in the next heat.

In this way, if they were in the same heat and Tanner scored his 10 first, Imai's score could go up higher to maintain the overall fairness. 11.7 in this case, if you ask me.

5am significant buoy readings
South shore

No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 1.3f 14s. While the Lahaina area had waist to occasional shoulder high sets of the wrap of big NW swell coming down the coast all the way from Honolua, I believe that 14s energy is what was in the water at Thousand Peaks where I stopped by to catch three knee high waves on the way to work. On one of them, I was hanging five and glided right over a turtle. Considering how rare my successful nose rides are, that might easily never happen again. It was pretty magic.

North shore
NW101
9.5ft @ 14s from 314° (NW)

Waimea
8.8ft @ 15s from 312° (NW)

Pauwela
7.3ft @ 17s from 325° (NW)
6.5ft @ 13s from 326° (NW)
2.8ft @ 9s from 351° (N)
2.1ft @ 11s from 336° (NNW)

The giant swell is trending down, as the graph of the three reported buoys shows below. Today the waves are going to be smaller than yesterday, but 7f 17s is still a big couple of numbers. Hookipa still too big (at least for me!), Kahului's breaks will be the call, even though the wind is unfortunately blowing 8mph at 6am.
 

Wind map at noon shows light trades.


North Pacific shows a not too impressive NW fetch.


South Pacific temporarily waking up from lethargy and showing a couple of fetches.


Morning sky and the sunshine continues.

Sunday, January 14, 2018

11am honolua is going off for the contest. Lahaina side had inconsistent waist to occasionally chest high waves