Sunday, May 20, 2018

6.45am lahaina side is belly to head high and clean. Ukumehame windy.

Sunday 5 20 17 morning call

Shortboard, prone foiling and longboard sessions for me yesterday.

Brother Alika is not a light weight, but he flies pretty high (bit too high in this case).

Chuck got the pump back out dialed and he will be the guy to blame for my upcoming heart attack while trying to do the same. SO much work.

Thanks to the bypass, this beach became one of the quietest beaches I've ever been on Maui. Absolutely delightful, but it's not gonna last long, as I presume they're going to open that short piece of road again when they're finished with the construction.

And while I was doing all that I was doing (including being at work at 2pm), the windsurfers were hitting the waves at Hookipa. The photos are by Jimmie Hepp from this gallery.

Dear Surfline, is that waist or stomach high? Maybe they use Hawaiian body parts...

4am significant buoy readings
South shore

3.4ft @ 17s from 140° (SE)

3ft @ 15s from 172° (S)

3.4ft @ 17s from 154° (SSE)

The numbers at the buoys are the biggest of the season so far, and today is going to be the biggest day so far. Waves and high crowds everywhere from Makena to Lahaina is my easy prediction on a sunny Sunday.

North shore
7.1ft @ 8s from 77° (ENE)
3.7ft @ 11s from 347° (NNW)
Decent numbers at Pauwela for this time of the year, the windsurfers will have fun again.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific shows a NW, a NNW and E windswell fetch.

South Pacific offers a fetch in the Tasman Sea.

Morning sky

Saturday, May 19, 2018

6am lahaina side is inconsistent knee to occasionally waist high. A little bigger in town. Bad wind at ukumehame.

Saturday 5 19 18 mjorning call

A prone foiling session for me yesterday. On the north shore, the NNW swell did arrive and the windsurfers enjoyed the head to logo high waves. Photo by Jimmie Hepp from this gallery.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore

1.6ft @ 17s from 194° (SSW)

1.5ft @ 17s from 164° (SSE)

New LOW long period swell on the rise. Here's Pat Caldwell's description of what happened.
A pair of austral winter-caliber low pressure systems tracked SW to SE of New Zealand within 5/10-13. Both were fast-moving with ocean surface winds mostly zonal. Angular spreading should bring in swell locally.

Below is the collage of the Maps of May 11, 12 and 13 that shows the fetches directly aimed at us in red and the main swell direction and its angular spreading in blue. The onset of a swell generated down there is slow even for fetches aimed more directly at us, since the longer period sets have 7-8 days of time to distance themselves from the slower shorter period ones trailing behind. But in case of the angular spreading, the consistency is even less, as the amount of energy that manages to disperse away from the main direction is obviously less.

North shore
4.9ft @ 10s

3.1ft @ 6s from 69° (ENE)
2.8ft @ 7s from 72° (ENE)
2.2ft @ 9s from 346° (NNW)
2.0ft @ 11s from 329° (NW)

Below are the Pauwela graph and the new (horrible) Surfline offshore swell forecast. The line indicating the current swell is the purple one, if you can spot it. The rising blue one on top is the mounting windswell. The indication of the wave face size is (as usual and as for every other surf forecast sites) completely useless, but now I have to show it if I want to include the indication of the day. Waist to stomach high... where? Everywhere on the north shore? Hopefully Jimmie Hepp will be shooting the windsurfers at Hookipa again and tomorrow we'll see much bigger waves than that.

Here's my approach, once again. Look at the offshore swell forecast. Compare it to what the buoy is reading. Go to your spot and observe the wave height. If you do this for a couple of weeks, you'll know already much better than ANY spot specific forecast on the internet. Cheers.

Wind map at noon (NOT updated this morning).

North Pacific shows a small and weak fetch in the NW corner and a building E windswell fetch.

South Pacific has a small fetch way down the Tasman Sea.

Morning sky.

PS. If some other Surfline user doesn't like the new look either, here's the email I sent them. Please contact them too and ask them to go back to the old graph. Thanks.

Attached is a comparison of the page I check the most on Surfline: the Maui offshore swell forecast.

It's pretty evident that the old graph was much easier to read, as it has thicker and more solid lines, with brighter colors.
I also liked that you could turn each single swell off the chart (didn't find that option on the new one). And lastly, I prefer the sliding bar MUCH better than the four separate groups of days, as it's a lot easier to see the continuity of the swells throughout the 17days period and focus on the set of days of my interest instead of the preset ones. This last part got even worse on the cell phone, as there it shows only one day at the time.

I  might be a peculiar Surfline user (I don't even bother checking the spot forecasts, as with my local knowledge all I need is the offshore swells prediction), but IMO that page is now worse than it used to be.

Friday, May 18, 2018

8.30am ukumehame is knee high and light onshore.

6.30am ukumehame is knee to occasionally thigh high and clean.

Friday 5 18 18 morning call

A prone foiling session for me yesterday.

Proper model for a proper photoshoot.

Guess he didn't check the tide.

Sunny Garcia's trainee likes Maui, so it can happen to randomly see him around.

And after I read this chapter, I went looking for the Tao of foiling and found it in a couple of rides.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore

3.2ft @ 11s from 188° (S)

2.6ft @ 12s from 168° (SSE)

2.9ft @ 12s from 150° (SE)

The very long lasting angular spreading south swell is still tenaciously at the outer buoys, now down to 11-12s. As reported, yesterday it was knee to waist high, might be knee to thigh today. I'll report as soon as I'll get there. New low long period swell should hit tomorrow.

North shore
4.8ft @ 11s
4ft @ 12.5s from 330° (NNW)
3.7ft @ 6s from 69° (ENE)
2.5ft @ 7s from 71° (ENE)
1.7ft @ 11s from 332° (NNW)
New NNW pulse on the rise today. Below is the graph of the PACIOOS Waimea buoy, which I've never used before. I circled in red the rise of the swell between midnight and 4am. Assuming the buoy is not far from the old NOAA one, the epic post Buoys to Maui travel times and Maui's shadow lines  (which interested new blog readers should most definitely learn), tells us that it takes about 5-6h for 12s energy to get from Oahu to Maui. As a matter of fact, Pauwela is barely feeling it and considering that Hookipa was pretty much flat at sunset yesterday, I don't expect it too be much bigger at sunrise. There will be some waves later in morning. And that's how I just decided to drive again to the south side for my sunrise session.

That is confirmed by the Surfline forecast, below in its new look. I put a red arrow to indicate the swell I'm talking about (purple line). I'll get used to this new look, but I miss the old one.

Wonna know where is this swell coming from? Let's ask Pat Caldwell: A long fetch of strong to near gale breezes set up 5/15 and have held into 5/16 over the 330-350 degree band.

Below is the collage of the fetches of May 15 and 16. I put a black arrow to point to the fetch. The more you look at fetches and at their resulting swells, the less you're gonna need to check the "official" forecasts, as you will immediately have an idea of what kind of swell you can expect from a fetch like that.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific has a small fetch in the NW corner.

South Pacific shows a pretty decent fetch in the Tasman Sea. Get used to those, as there will be plenty more to come.

Morning sky.

Thursday, May 17, 2018

6.30am ukumehame is knee to waist and clean

Thursday 5 17 18 morning call

A shortboard and a prone foiling session for me yesterday. A few photos in between.

Hanging ten in that section and in front of dry reef was a very ballsy move without a leash.

It ended up with a walk to vana land. Might as well enjoy the view.

Before catching the foiling bug, Gerry was mostly body surfing. You can tell he's fit.
He was foiling all by himself, so I had to join him for an arvo session. Best prone one for me so far.
4am significant buoy readings
South shore
2.6ft @ 13s from 149° (SE)
2.2ft @ 13s from 159° (SSE)
2.5ft @ 13s from 173° (S)
South swell doing what Pat Caldwell describes here.
Severe gale to hurricane-force low pressure systems SW to SE of New Zealand spaced a day or two apart starting 5/7 has returned surf in Hawaii to near the average. The sources mostly aimed west to east, so swell is arriving through angular spreading. This leads to less consistent arrival of sets as has been the case the past two days.

The first event peaked Tuesday PM 5/15 and is slowly declining 5/16. Dispersion, or the spreading out of swell trains based on wave period, since longer waves travel faster, allows events from remote sources to linger for several days. The NOAA southern buoys 51003, 51002, and 51004 show the dominant wave period has shifted down from the 17 seconds at the peak to 15 seconds 5/16. It should continue a slow drop in wave period as breaker size declines toward background levels on Friday as a new event fills in.
We'll talk about that tomorrow, let's stay focused on today, as those numbers at the buoys will guarantee more fun waves for us to enjoy. I'll beach report before 6.30am.

North shore
3.7ft @ 8s from 42° (NE)
1.3ft @ 12s from 30° (NNE)
Pretty small energy at the Pauwela buoy for another very small day on the north shore. Size should increase tomorrow as a new/modest NW shifting NNW swell tops out, as reported by the Surfline forecast.
Wind map at noon (finally up to date).

North Pacific only has a tiny little fetch north of us.
South Pacific shows a solid SSW fetch aimeing at us, but unfortunately New Zealand will block most of that energy.
Morning sky.

Wednesday, May 16, 2018

6.30am lahaina side is knee to waist high with occasional bigger sets, like the chest high one I saw at ukumehame while driving. Clean everywhere but probably still inconsistent.