Friday, July 21, 2017

7am hookipa has short period  waves that from the distance looked like shoulder high. West side is mostly knee high, peaks is windy, olowalu glassy but no sets when I drove by, launiupoko knee high and clean. Lahaina town, as usual, has occasionally bigger sets.

Friday 7 21 17 morning call

No clean waves anywhere on the island and I only got in the water for a swim. That's how disruptive strong trades can be. Jason Hall took this photo of a friend at Pavils, so at least we have a photo of the day.

3-4am significant buoy readings
South shore

2.3ft @ 12s from 137° (SE)

2.7ft @ 12s from 138° (SE)

Is that southerly energy or is that Fernanda's swell or a mix? I think it's southerly energy with an incorrect direction indication. And that's because I remember some decent fetches a week ago. Below is the collage of July 14, 15 and 16 and that is what Pat Caldwell describes with words (doing an excellent job, as usual): A large area of surface low pressure in the southern hemisphere mid latitudes south of French Polynesia stretching NW to NE of New Zealand was mostly sub-gale in strength. It was slow moving with a gradual eastward shift 7/12-16. It will likely be the source of the summer background conditions as found 7/19 continuing through the period.

As usual, the webcams will give us not only the confirmation of that, but also a good idea of the local conditions. Watch out the morning's new moon minus low tides.

North shore
4.3ft @ 9s from 84° (E)                      
2.5ft @ 11s from 90° (E)

6.6ft @ 8s from 86° (E)

The windswell went down in size but got to 9s at Pauwela, while the longer period Fernanda swell disappeared at Hilo (at least from the 3am readings). That, and the easterly reported directions, makes me call for a fairly small day at Hookipa. Not flat, but nothing to do with a couple of days ago when the windswell had a much more northerly direction.

Wind map at noon shows a peculiar configuration that I've never seen before and so I highly question. It'll be easy to check it's correctness thanks to the Lahaina webcam and the Kahului harbor sensors.

North Pacific only shows an easterly windswell fetch.

Decent fetch in the Tasman Sea, but don't get too excited about it unless you're flying to Fiji, where Surfline predicts 11f 14s on Monday. Unfortunately only 1.7f 15s is our prediction a week. That's how much energy those Tasman Sea swells lose on their way.

Despite the fact that Fernanda is not in the picture just yet, looks like we might start experiencing some moisture and clouds as early as today.

Thursday, July 20, 2017

7.30am hookipa has short period blown out waves. Because of the strong trades, lahaina looks like light onshore on the webcam. No clean surfing anywhere this morning.

Thursday 7 20 17 morning call

Yesterday for me was a gorgeous day (despite clouds and rain) as I had three sessions literally all over the island. The video below was taken by a friend that saw me leaving the beach for a windfoiling training session. I call it training session, because I knew it wasn't going to be particularly fun as the wind looked blustery and low quality, but I want to try to foil as much as I can, in order to learn the skills that will allow me to move to surf foiling without too much struggle. I'm riding my Kai Gofoil and as you can see it still foils at much slower speed than a regular windsurfing foil would. That's why I consider the surfing foils the ideal "beginner windfoiling" foils.

Mid afternoon the windswell jumped up quite a bit and some windsurfers tackled the head high waves at Hookipa, but it honestly didn't look particularly epic.

So I chose to go surfing again and I found a spot that looked poor from the beach, but it was much better once I paddled out. Thanks to the magic 9.4 I had a couple of waves in the excellent range. Hookipa at sunset instead looked like a 2 to me.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore

2.2ft @ 12s from 136° (SE)

3.5ft @ 12s from 95° (E)           
1.7ft @ 10s from 112° (ESE)

3.4ft @ 12s from 127° (ESE)

Impossible to say how much energy we have on tap from the south, as the readings are influenced by the similar period energy coming from around 100 degrees from Fernanda. The webcams will be our only way to find out about size and conditions.

North shore
5ft @ 8s from 61° (ENE)                      
2ft @ 11s from 90° (E)
5.7ft @ 8s from 78° (ENE)
2.9ft @ 12s from 103° (ESE)
Hilo records 3f 12s from 103 and that's what the Fernanda swell is at the moment. Pauwela only gets 2f from 90 degrees because it's partially shadowed and gets the refracted energy, but Hana should see the full 3f. The waves that picked up on the north shore yesterday were exclusively trades windswell, which had a remarkable bump up to 6f 8s in the middle of day (blue line in the graph below). Down a bit today, but still kinda pumping at 5f 8s from 61.
I put a red arrow to indicate the light green line that shows the longer period energy from Fernanda. Small stuff compared to the trades windswell.
Here's an interesting comment from Pat Caldwell's last discussion that confirms the impression I expressed in yesterday's call: "As has been the case before, the Wave Watch III biased high for the onset stage of the longest wave period energy that was due 7/18. As the wave intervals settle more near moderate wave periods, the model tends to do better."

And here's one of those gems that I absolutely love. I admit it: if uncle Pat was a rock singer, I'd be a roadie. In the tropical eastern north Pacific, tropical cyclone Greg has formed and could bring easterly exposures a Hana hou to the Fernanda gig mid to late next week.

Here's the latest predicted path of Fernanda.

And here's Caldwell's table for Oahu (in this case it will apply with no differences to Maui). Good size short/medium period energy, but pretty bad wind direction.

Wind map at noon.

North shore keeps showing only the windswell fetch.

South Pacific shows a fetch in the Tasman Sea.

More clouds on top of us, but I like how the upwind sky looks like. Maybe we'll get some sunshine before the storm (which is not in the picture yet).

Wednesday, July 19, 2017

6am west side is flat to knee high and clean everywhere. Lahaina is knee to occasionally waist high.

Wednesday 7 19 17 morning call

My longboard session in Lahaina was delightful yesterday, but I don't have a photo of the day. Usually this time of the year I'm in Indo and Facebook keeps proposing me those memories from the past, so here's a photo I posted 5 years ago. About to bail and dive into the wall.
This year I plan on leaving late August, so if you plan on visiting Maui around that time for about a month, email me to check the availability of my studio/car.

2-3am significant buoy readings
South shore
1.9ft @ 13s from 150° (SE)

2.5ft @ 12s from 167° (SSE)

2.7ft @ 12s from 146° (SE)

Couple of feet of southerly energy at the outer buoys, and I'm going longboarding again. Check webcams and my beach report for conditions and size.

North shore
4.1ft @ 7s from 37° (NE)                      
0.8ft @ 14s from 84° (E)

1.8ft @ 13s from 109° (ESE)

The NOAA WW3 model predicts 4f 15s at 8am and Surfline (which integrates the WW3 into their near shore model) predicts 5f 15s both from around 100 degrees for the swell generated a few days ago by Fernanda. Both are quite off unfortunately as Hilo (the most exposed buoy to 100 degrees) only reads what reported. Only barely a foot at Pauwela, while the northerly windswell will remain the main source of waves for Hookipa with 4f 7s.

The models prediction always looked a bit too high to me for such a small (although intense) fetch as the one Fernanda had. So, unless the swell builds later in the day (check the buoys for that), or unless you go to Hana, no hurricane surfing today.
Wind map at noon. Looks like pretty strong trades.

North Pacific only shows a windswell fetch.

No fetches worth circling in the South Pacific, we got to wait until tomorrow for the one in the Tasman Sea to form.

Some clouds, but the potential for another stunning day (like yesterday ended up to be) is there.

Tuesday, July 18, 2017

6.45am west side is flat to knee high and clean everywhere. Lahaina is knee to occasionally waist high. Hookipa had short period waves that looked like chest high in the dark

Tuesday 7 18 17 morning call

Longboarding in Lahaina, a windfoil session and a surf session at Hookipa at sunset were my ocean activities yesterday. Might seem like a lot, but they were all kinda short.

This is Marlon Lewis who is knowledgeable enough to score perfect foiling conditions inside the harbor thanks to the northerly windswell. Now that I know what amazing feeling foiling is, this was the comment that I left: "I just got myself a Maliko and even though I'll take my time, sooner or later, I promise, I'll do that too. And it will be because this shot inspired me a hell lot. I went windfoiling in the harbor later in the day and I saw those rollers coming in. I didn't even think about them as being good for what you were doing earlier. That's how much of a game changer those foils are!"
Again, don't look at that with the eyes of the surfer. He's not surfing, he's foiling.

4am significant buoy readings.
South shore
2.2ft @ 13s from 154° (SSE)

2.2ft @ 12s from 175° (S)

2.3ft @ 13s from 158° (SSE)

Lovely couple of feet of southerly energy at the outer buoys. After yesterday's session at Hookipa, I know I'd rather go to Lahaina again this morning. Check webcams and my beach report for size and conditions.

North shore
4.4ft @ 7s from 42° (NE)                      
0.6ft @ 11s from 92° (E)
0.4ft @ 14s from 62° (ENE)

5.8ft @ 8s from 55° (ENE)                      
0.8ft @ 14s from 153° (SSE)
0.6ft @ 12s from 155° (SSE)
I'm not sure if those longer period readings are the forerunners of the Fernanda easterly swell, but even if they are they're still too small to do much. The waves at Hookipa will be the short period windswell only, at least for the morning. Check the buoys later to see if the longer period energy increases. The Surfline forecast for the next three days shows the Fernanda swell increasing all day today, but the day for that seems to be Wednesday. Notice also the much shorter period red windswell that the storm will generate when it gets closer.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific only shows a windswell fetch and Fernanda slowly getting closer.

The big blue picture shows many more tropical storms cells behind.

I didn't circle any fetches in the South Pacific, 'cause they all look way too weak for us. Tomorrow there will be a better one in the Tasman Sea. Time to book a Fiji trip if you got time, money and skill.

Still a bit of moisture around us.

Monday, July 17, 2017

7.15am west side is pretty much flat, with the exception of lahaina town that has knee to occasionally belly high clean waves.

6am hookipa has short period chest to head high waves. Not much wind at the moment, but overall poor shape. I go lahaina.