Morning session was glassy head high to a couple of feet overhead which is my favorite size for this place (which nonetheless works at ANY size from knee high to triple overhead plus). It was a bit slow and it got progressively more crowded, so I only give it a 6.5, but don't forget that the scale here is ridicolously high.
This particular wave was a 9 and I was slowing down with the hand in the water the whole way, but not quite enough to get covered. It never seems to be enough room for me to get in there, but there obviously was in this case. I need to force myself to slow down more.
Afternoon session was down to chest high. The shot below is still from the morning session that always has a better light.
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